Location: Ancash, Peru
Mountain Range: Cordillera Blanca
Level: D (Difficult)
Terrain & Route: From the refuge or the Base Camp follow the right bank of the mountain valley to the moraine broken by the lake. From there, go straight up the slope to the left. Climb with wall gradients between 40-45°
Number of Days: 3-4
Experience: Mountain climb experience at altitude required
An eye-catching pyramidal shape, Nevado Tocllaraju standing at 6,032m is part of the mountain massif called Macizo del Chinchey, situated in the central-southern part of the Cordillera Blanca. The peak is hidden away deep in Blanca, though that’s not to say it’s very hard to get there and enjoy climbing this impressive mountain.
Tocllaraju, surrounded by glaciers, has steep faces and ridges on all sides. When hiking up through the Quebrada Ishinca, the first ridge that comes into view is the steep one that starts out to the South, which narrows and turns Eastward after a while, eventually leading to Palcaraju (6,274 m).
A particularly steep but somewhat less pronounced ridge goes eastward straight from the summit, and then there is the NW ridge, which joins the North ridge within
100m. The relatively wide NW ridge quickly drops to about 5,200m, before narrowing and rising steeply again to the twin summits of Nevado Akilpo (5,560m).
The most popular climb route is along the NW ridge. The technical part of this climbing route is overcoming the bergschrund at the base of the summit mushroom and the slope above it. This section can be measured from level AD to D, making it difficult to ascend and overcome depending on the conditions of the bergschrund.
Meet locals on your way through the peaks and valleys of the Cordillera Blanca
Discover stunning lakes hidden among snowy peaked mountains
Climb one of the famous mountains of the Cordillera Blanca.
Treks & Expedition Routes